There is a legendary waterfall on the Big Island that is so tall that you barely even see the top of it from its base. Behold the grandiose of Hi’ilawe Falls!
Disclaimer: This post is meant to share an experience I had on the Big Island and is not meant to serve as a guide to reach this destination. This writeup is a very brief summary of our trip and does not contain enough information to prepare anyone for the trek. Furthermore, Hi’ilawe is located behind local farms and permission must be granted to navigate through/around their plots to the waterfall.
To hike to this waterfall, we parked at the Waipio Valley lookout. Driving down the steep and narrow road is not advised as it is reserved for local/residential traffic, also there is no visitor parking in the valley. We did notice locals shuttling folks up and down the hill in their pickups (probably for a fee); but I’m cheap and I wanted the full experience, so we tramped down the ridiculously steep road. The Waipio Valley rd drops nearly 900ft in just about a half of a mile. The average gradient on the road is 25%, but a few spots can push up to 45%. This road has burnt out many car breaks and overwhelmed many vehicles with engines too small to accomplish the crawl back up the hill. Basically, do not drive down the road…
Beautiful vistas of the valley and the distant Waipähoehoe Falls were available all along our descent. The great views were a welcomed distraction from the precipitous road. Our excitement somehow spared us the brutal realization that we would eventually be trudging back up this escarpment.
As we reached the valley floor we were greeted by a glimpse of our destination.
At half a mile in height, Hi’ilawe was a very conspicuous landmark in the valley. This was a relief to me, as I had been concerned about whether or not we would even find the falls.
As we moved deeper into the valley, we were met by a local resident of Waipio. Whether it was his stature or the massive knife he carried on his hip, he was quite intimidating. We had a long but enlightening conversation about life in the Waipio Valley. We asked if he knew of a trail to Hi’ilawe Falls. He informed us that access to the waterfall could be achieved by passing through his farm. We asked for permission proceed. He granted it. After an unsettling word of caution concerning our safety in the valley, he pointed us in the direction we needed to go.
With a heading and our witts about us, we followed the stream through the valley as advised. The man had warned us not press our luck if the weather took a turn, as their had been a recent fatality involving a group of hikers…
To reach the waterfall, we had to get our feet a little wet. I crossed first in order to establish which part of the crossing was the least deep.
My buddy strayed away from the path I suggested and completely submerged himself and his camera bag (his camera survived LOL). Fortunately, it was not a very long crossing.
Moving closer to the waterfall, my mind could hardly grasp the size of what we were looking at. Hi’ilawe Falls is the main cascade in the valley. The thinner waterfall to the left is Hakalaoa Falls and is often dry. For some reason on the day of our visit, Hakalaoa was only falling about halfway down its total length, then disappearing into a cavity in the cliff. If anyone knows more about where the water from Hakalaoa is disappearing to, I would love to hear about it in the comments.
Hi’ilawe towered over the valley.
After a wild hike through the woods and across a few stream crossings, we had made it. The size this behemoth can hardly be conveyed in words or images. To me, Hi’ilawe is the king of waterfalls in these Islands.
Elegantly draped over the cliff, Hi’ilawe Falls plunges into an inviting basin. We considered swimming in it, but at this point we were all shivering and way too cold.
At its base, the wind and spray were relentless. The sound of the crashing water was tranquil but also a constant reminder of the force of nature we were face to face with.
At 1,450 feet, Hi’ilawe falls is the tallest waterfall on Hawaii. It is also tallest waterfall that can be reached on foot in the state. For scale, it is the same height as the Empire State Building. Being given the opportunity to experience the power and beauty of nature was truly an awe inspiring adventure.
These ancient valleys are saturated with incredible myths and folklore. The legendary origins of Hi’ilawe Falls recounts the tale of two lovers, Hi’ilawe and Hakalaoa. The couple fled to the back of the Waipio valley to hide from Lono, the Hawaiian god of rain and agriculture. Lono wanted to separate the two lovers as he had claimed Hi’ilawe to be his bride. However, the couple firmly desired to never be separated, so their wish was granted: Hi’ilawe was turned into a waterfall, while Hakalaoa was transformed into a large rock at the base of the cascade. It is said that the waterfall’s flow represents Hi’ilawe’s tears raining incessantly on the large stone, Hakalaoa, below.
The Waipio Valley, sometimes referred to as the valley of the kings, is also a historically significant place for Hawaii. Many ancient chiefs and nobles were from Waipio valley, but it is perhaps most famous as the birth place of King Kamehameha I. During his reign, King Kamehameha conquered and subdued all of the Hawaiian Islands. He created the largest kingdom these Islands had ever seen. He is sometimes referred to as Kamehameha the Great.